May 12, 2021

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Cashmere and its affinities

Why is everyone wearing today in cashmere? Because no one has ever done anything more soft, warm and comfortable. Comfort: the master-word of the time. Because it refers to a certain idea of luxury, and just need to tint of elegance to a casual outfit. Because it is worn in summer as in winter. Because it offers to others and to oneself. Because it is now accessible, and of good quality. And if democratisation does not date from yesterday, a new generation of claws the registrant in the air, while the historic houses are very creative for him to keep his sex-appeal.

Among the labels most desirable of the moment, these five then cultivate their singularity: color palette, rich or fibre-natural, non-dyed, influence streetwear or artisanal spirit, shopping experience or eshops well-stocked with… A selection of non-exhaustive since many other brands do well. But all agree on one point: the purchase of a cashmere is never insignificant.

Eric Bompard: sweater sentimentalDans his latest book, The Man who is crying with laughter, Frédéric Beigbeder is going strong. The hellion wrote: “You know you’re poor when your sweaters are no longer signed Eric Bompard.” The pull Bompard would it be a social marker? “Yes, without a doubt,” says Agnes Calef, director of communications of the house. There remains institutional, a guarantee of quality, luxury and know-how.” With 500 000 pieces of knitted each year, the brand founded in 1984 by Mr. Bompard remains queen in his kingdom. There is the pull Bompard found under the christmas tree, the one stitched to his mother after years of tough negotiations, the cardigan of a grand-mother adored, the gift of birth… The arrival of competition, both qualitative and quantitative, does not make him afraid. On the contrary. “The competition never hurts,” continues Agnes Calef. It allows to recreate the image of kashmir, not to consider it as a product too expensive and too classical, to move forward. We’ve never changed but we live.” Since its acquisition by Xavier Marie in 2018, the brand up to this franco-French began a gentle revolution. It extends its empire by opening up corners abroad (in the United States, Japan, and Korea, and sales to multi-brand. Remains to know if our friends across the Channel and across the Atlantic will switch to the statistics of the best selling models. For the past thirty years, the best-seller, all categories, proves to be the turtleneck two black wires (250 €). An easy choice? Think again: in Bompard, a simple turtleneck is available in ten shapes and ten tricotages different! www.eric-bompard.com

Kujten: the powerdressing of the quadrasCarole Benaroya (coming from the world of finance) and Stephanie Eriksson (formerly the head of knitwear at the home of Joseph) were the four hundred blows before launching into the adventure of kashmir in 2012. The quarantine approached, the two childhood friends have created Kujten (the name of the mount that dominates the Altai mountains, in Mongolia, because all their collections are produced and knitted), determined to make the sweater soft and comfortable with a modern alternative and that is accessible to the silk blouse. The Mini (175 €), their best-selling oversized V neck and three-quarter sleeves, available in twenty-five colors, can be worn day or night. “Today you can go to work, go out and be stylish by putting on a sweater, to ensure the founders. We develop lines dedicated to the evening with details of lace, necklines in a flattering way. The softness and lightness of cashmere provide this kind of fantasy.” Another success of the parisian brand, the “airport look” – to understand, to the locker room, comfortable that women like to take the plane without skimping on style: jogging bottoms, hoody, stole. As to its capsule organic, unisex and warranty without stain, to the palette of natural ecru, string and camel (395 €), it makes the happiness of the ladies. In the shop freshly opened at number 28 avenue Victor-Hugo (Paris 16e), the fas have set up a spa in kashmir, to teach clients to wash and take care of their purchases, intended to last a vie.www.kujten.com

Alexandra Golovanoff: flatter women Its pull-overs do not have the classic appearance. When she leaves his cap fashion journalist for styling the designer, Alexandra Golovanoff is uncompromising. For example, the round neck signature Mila (365 €), of which the curves close to the hip bone, is studied to creep to the front in the waistband of the pants and modestly cover the back, when sitting. A detail? Yes, but these details make the perfection of a garment and provide a beautiful worn. Launched in 2016, his little family of knitted fabrics is growing: in the meshes of the daily addition to pants, dresses, skirts and accessories. After his corner at the Right Market, a store dedicated has seen the light of day this fall (5, rue de Varenne, Paris 7th). “The thread of cashmere allows the nuances of extraordinary enthusiasm by the French. My initial idea was to play the card of color, offering muted shades, subtle as a parade in black and navy. And don’t forget that to buy a cashmere is never trivial, it’s a purchase that precious, intimate. The pull of a life.”www.alexandragolovanoff.com

From the Future: the conquest of the millennials It is the story of a father, Philippe de Hesdin (co-founder of the Kookaï brand to the iconic sweaters sock), and his two children, Pauline and Thomas. As a family, they are the bet, in 2018, to give the taste of this noble material, rather bourgeois, to the younger generations. How to do it? Start with the rid of his image that is too smooth and wise. Asymmetrical shapes, logos, messages, positive, color slamming and images with the endorsement: here, cashmere is synonymous with streetwear. For the sake of consistency towards its target, the brand offers a small price (from € 59), which is good news for mothers. The Hesdin source over Inner Mongolia and decline their 40 templates for girl and boy, ultradoux in more than 300 colours. Sold on an eshop dedicated to you, of course, and in the shop of the 54, rue de Rennes (Paris 6th). www.fromfuture.com

Uniqlo: for all at a small price whenever you visit a store, just want to offer another. There they are, neatly arranged, categorized by color and shape from the collar. The price, as soft as the material, challenges: 89,90 €. The label provides yet a “100 % cashmere”. “There is our strength,” says Odilia of Aramon, communications director Europe of the japanese giant. The role of Uniqlo since its creation in 1984, has not changed: to offer clothes basic, universal, quality and accessible.” Report quality great price, explained by the concept of the brand who, between technology and craft, down all of its production, procurement of materials, to dyeing, to spinning, knitting and finishing. “The cashmere sweater by Uniqlo has arrived in the shops in the world in 2009, it quickly became a best-seller,” continues Ms. d Aramon. In France, for the women, although the round neck is still a unanimous vote for his side of androgynous, the turtleneck has gained popularity in recent years. The everything, is always in neutral tones! As in Japan, the French have the sense of beauty. If they like the comfort, they also want to elegance. Our cashmere brings together these two wishes, to noble prize.”www.uniqlo.com